Sant Agnello, Sorrento, Italy - Pompei & Vesuvius
27
July
Well its been a few weeks since Kezia and I returned home from Sant Agnello, Sorrento, Italy. So I thought I would share our holiday and publish some of our photos to take my mind off of the non-stop rain in the United Kingdom.
Sorrento - home of big fat juicy tomatoes, natural lemons and lush ice cream!
We stayed for one week at the “Hotel Pergola” in Sant Agnello - about a 15 minute walk outside of Sorrento itself.
There were three real highlights of the trip for me – the first was standing at the top of “Mount Vessuvio” which is the only live volcano in Mainland Europe, and apparently due to erupt at any time. erm.
The route takes you up a narrow, steep, winding road through some of the poorest residential areas in Naples. These are people who have chosen to live in run-down houses and shacks, many of which still have evidence of the damage done during the 1944 eruption. They can’t get insurance and live illegally in the potential ‘danger zone’ making the most out of the highly fertile volcanic earth to make a living out of growing fruit and veg’. In fact, the Naples Government offer 35k Euros compensation to anyone who moves out of the area. However, over the past 3 years that the incentive has been available, only a handful of people have taken advantage of it. I think that sums up the Italians proud/laid-back attitude to life. Once at the last bus-stop there is still a considerable, but fun, climb up a dusty, steep gravel footpath - which we managed to conquer in flip-flops! Every so often the track has slipped away down a massive vertical drop and occasionally has been propped-up with a few bits of (insufficient) wood – held-together with string. But rather than make you angry at the potential risk, curiously it just makes you smile!
About half an hour and a litre of water later, at the top is a wonderful view of the entire Gulf of Naples and the islands of Capri and Ischia. At the very end of the footpath (which follows the outside of the crater) you may have expected to see a bench and maybe even a telescope with some kind of viewing platform – but unexpectedly (or perhaps not in Naples) there is a small souvenir shop, literally perched on a wooden platform at the very edge of the Volcano.
I’ve just realised that I haven’t mentioned about the traffic in around Sorrento. Suffice to say it’s an absolute farce- but entertaining to watch! We were lucky that we were staying in the quiet residential area of Sant Agnello which is about a 15 minute walk Sorrento itself. There is a constant stream of scooters (in groups – some with up to 3 people on one scooter), buses, delivery lorries, cars, small three-wheeled trucks and even horse and carts full of tourists – heading into and out of the Sorrento Peninsular. The tradition of ‘hooting’ someone to warn them you are about to overtake increases the already high noise levels. This is all part of of the atmosphere and wouldn’t be the same without it!
The second highlight was Pompeii - It was amazing to see how well preserved these ruins actually are. Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, destroying the city, killing tens of thousands of people, and burying the entire thing under ash and rock (but not lava). That is why archaeologists were able to uncover the city in such great condition. We saw Roman paintings, houses, bakeries, markets and several shops. The streets were fascinating to walk on - there were even visible tracks worn into the stone from chariot wheels.
The third highlight was the food! Especially, Insalata Caprese (Salad in the style of Capri). Caprese Salad is a simple salad of sliced fresh mozzarella, plum tomatoes and basil from the Italian region of Campania. It is seasoned with salt, black pepper, and olive oil. The main ingredients are similar to Pizza Margherita, but are not cooked. I had this for the first time for lunch about half way through our holiday - and I had it every day after!
It wasn’t only the lunches that were delicious, the dinners and deserts were terrific also!
There is a famous ice cream parlor in Sorrento called “Davides” with over 70 flavours of ice creams - we made sure we sampled a good range!
So now we are both back in the UK enduring the rain and cold in July!! Sorrento is enjoying a heatwave of 40′C - at least we have the memories of a tan!
Josef Nankivell & Kezia Wilsdon - Sant Agnello, Sorrento. June 8th -15th 2007.





